Dividing perennials: When and how to transplant your perennials correctly

Dividing perennials: When and how to transplant your perennials correctly

Dividing perennials: When and how to transplant your perennials correctly

Key points at a glance

  • Dividing perennials rejuvenates the plants, encourages abundant flowering and is a simple propagation method for creating new planting schemes.
  • The ideal time depends on the respective flowering period. Sturdy metal perennial supports from ELEO Garten effectively help newly transplanted perennials establish themselves.



Over the years, many perennial plants develop into magnificent clumps, but eventually their vitality begins to decline. The centre ages, flowering becomes less abundant and the growth starts to fall apart. This is a natural process and, at the same time, a clear signal: it is time for rejuvenation. By dividing your perennials, you not only give them renewed strength for healthy growth, but also gain valuable new plants for other areas of your garden. With the right timing, the appropriate technique and targeted support after transplanting, you can ensure healthy, vigorous and free-flowering plants for years to come.


Why dividing perennials makes sense


Dividing perennials is one of the most fundamental and effective maintenance tasks in the garden. Most perennials grow outwards from the centre. While young, vigorous shoots develop around the edges, the older inner sections become woody and slowly die back. This area is known as the ageing centre of the clump. Dividing removes these exhausted parts of the plant and gives the healthy, young sections a fresh start. This not only promotes plant health but is also an essential method of propagating perennials.


How can you tell when a perennial should be divided?


Older perennials develop typical signs over time, such as a bare centre, weaker growth or fewer flowers.



Your plants will give clear signals when it is time for division. Look out for the following signs:

  • Bare centre: The clearest sign is a hole or bare patch in the centre of the clump while the outer edges are still green.
  • Reduced flowering: The number or size of the flowers decreases from year to year.
  • Weak growth: The shoots are thinner than usual, the perennial falls apart easily or flops over after rain.
  • Size control: The plant has simply become too large for its location and is crowding neighbouring plants.

As a rule of thumb, fast-growing perennials such as asters or phlox benefit from division every three to five years. Slow-growing species such as peonies or hostas can remain undisturbed in the same location for considerably longer.


The benefits: rejuvenation, propagation & more abundant flowers


Division is much more than just a maintenance task. It is an investment in the future of your garden. The most obvious benefit is rejuvenation: the divided sections once again have full access to nutrients, water and light, resulting in stronger growth and significantly more abundant flowering. At the same time, it is the most cost-effective way to propagate perennials. One large plant can easily become several smaller ones that you can use to fill gaps in borders, create new planting areas or give to gardening friends. In addition, a more open planting structure improves air circulation, reducing susceptibility to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.


When should you divide perennials?


The right timing is crucial for success. One basic rule is: never divide during the main flowering period. At this stage, the plant is investing all its energy in producing flowers and seeds and is too weakened to cope well with the stress of transplanting. The ideal time is during a dormant period when the soil is neither frozen nor dried out by summer heat. Whether spring or autumn is more suitable depends on when the particular perennial flowers.


Divide spring-flowering perennials in autumn


Perennials that flower in spring – including many iris species, bleeding heart, bergenias and early varieties of cranesbill – are best divided in late summer or early autumn. The period from late August to early October is ideal. The soil is still warm from the summer sun, which encourages new root growth, while cooler weather and more frequent rainfall make establishment easier. If you want to divide perennials in autumn, allow the new sections at least four to six weeks to establish their roots properly before the first frost.


Divide summer- and autumn-flowering perennials in spring


For most summer- and autumn-flowering perennials such as coneflower (Echinacea), phlox, autumn asters and daylilies, spring is the best time. As soon as the soil is frost-free and workable, usually between March and April, the clumps can be lifted. The first shoot tips are often already visible, making it easier to assess the plant's vitality. The plant then has the entire growing season ahead of it to develop a strong root system and establish itself in its new location.



Dividing and transplanting perennials – step by step


The actual division process is straightforward and can be carried out successfully with a little care. It is important to work quickly so that the sensitive roots do not dry out. Therefore, fully prepare the new planting location before lifting the parent plant.


The right preparation: tools & weather


For the job, you will need a sharp spade or digging fork, a sturdy knife – an old bread knife works very well – secateurs and a watering can. For very dense, woody root balls, a small axe can also be useful. Clean and disinfect your tools before use to prevent the spread of disease. Choose a cool, overcast day, ideally after light rain. Moist soil makes lifting the plant easier and reduces stress on it.


How to divide and transplant perennials


How to divide perennials correctly: from lifting the clump to planting and watering the new sections.


  1. Lift the perennial: Use a spade to cut generously around the perennial in a circle so that as many roots as possible remain intact. Carefully lift the entire root ball from the soil using a digging fork.
  2. Remove soil and inspect the roots: Shake and tap loose soil from the root ball. If necessary, rinse it with a gentle stream of water. This allows you to identify the direction of growth and remove diseased or dead root sections with secateurs.
  3. Divide the clump: Many perennials with loose root systems can simply be pulled apart by hand. For dense, matted root balls, as is typical of asters or phlox, place the spade or knife in the centre and divide the clump into several sections.
  4. Select the sections: The best pieces come from the younger outer edge of the clump. Each section should be about the size of a fist and have several strong shoots or buds as well as a healthy portion of roots. Discard the woody, weak centre.
  5. Prepare the planting hole and transplant the perennials: Dig a hole at the new location that is approximately twice as wide as the root ball. Loosen the base and plant the section at the same depth as it was growing previously. Fill the hole with soil and gently firm it down.
  6. Water thoroughly and care for the plant: Water the newly planted perennial thoroughly so that the soil settles around the roots. Keep the soil consistently moist over the following weeks, but avoid waterlogging.

Dividing perennials by species – the most popular examples


Although the basic technique is similar, every perennial has its own characteristics. Some are almost indestructible, while others require more careful handling.


Dividing peonies


Flowering peony (Paeonia) in the garden


Peonies (Paeonia) should only be divided when absolutely necessary, as they are long-lived and do not appreciate being moved. The best time is early autumn. Carefully lift the rootstock and divide it so that each section has at least three to five strong pink buds (“eyes”). Plant the sections very shallowly: the eyes should be covered by only three to five centimetres of soil. Peonies planted too deeply will not flower. It can take one to two years before they regain their full flowering potential.


Dividing irises


Bearded iris (Iris barbata) with its characteristic flowers

Tall bearded iris (Iris barbata) is best divided in late summer, immediately after flowering. The horizontally growing rootstocks, known as rhizomes, are lifted from the soil. Cut away old rhizome sections without leaves. Replant the healthy sections shallowly enough that the top of the rhizome remains visible above the soil. Cut the leaves back into a fan shape to around ten centimetres to reduce water loss through evaporation.


Dividing daylilies



Flowering daylily (Hemerocallis) in the border


Dividing daylilies (Hemerocallis) could hardly be easier. They are extremely robust and tolerate almost any mistake. Divide them in spring or autumn. Dense clumps can often be separated using a digging fork or two forks positioned back to back. Each section with a fan of leaves and roots will establish reliably and often flower as early as the following season.


Dividing cranesbill


Cranesbill (Geranium) with its characteristic flowers



Most species of cranesbill (Geranium) are vigorous and undemanding. They can be divided in spring or after the main flowering period in summer. Many mat-forming varieties can simply be cut through with a spade and replanted elsewhere. Cutting back after division encourages compact new growth.


Dividing phlox

Flowering garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)


Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) should be divided every few years in spring to maintain abundant flowering and help prevent powdery mildew. Use only the strong outer sections of the clump. Generous planting distances ensure good air circulation and help keep the plants healthy.


Dividing asters


Autumn aster (Aster) in full bloom


Regular division in spring is essential for autumn asters to maintain their vitality. They are particularly prone to developing a bare centre. Lift the clump, discard the old central section and replant the young, vigorous outer pieces in a sunny location with nutrient-rich soil.


Supporting freshly divided perennials correctly



A sturdy perennial support from ELEO Garten gives freshly divided and tall-growing perennials support without interfering with their natural growth habit.



A freshly divided perennial initially invests its energy in root development. Above-ground growth is often still unstable at first, as there is not yet a well-established root system to anchor the shoots. Particularly with tall or large-flowered species, strong winds, rain or the weight of the flowers themselves can easily cause young shoots to bend or break. Timely support is therefore not merely a matter of appearance, but an important contribution to plant health.


Why a perennial support is particularly useful now


A high-quality perennial support provides the still-weak shoots with the support they need from the very beginning. Unlike makeshift solutions, the shoots can grow through the open structure of a metal perennial support and are guided gently but securely. This is particularly important for peonies, phlox, asters and delphiniums. The support prevents the clump from falling apart and maintains an upright, attractive growth habit.

Perennial supports made from solid, durable metal by ELEO Garten are a one-off investment that pays off for many years. They are not only functional, but also add attractive accents to the border. As the plant grows, the support gradually becomes concealed by the foliage and remains an unobtrusive but effective aid that contributes to a neat and harmonious garden appearance.


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Frequently asked questions



Can you divide perennials in summer?


It is not recommended, but it is possible in an emergency. The combination of heat and the unavoidable loss of roots causes considerable stress to the plant. If it cannot be avoided, choose a cool, overcast day, cut the foliage back by around half to minimise water loss through evaporation and keep the soil consistently moist over the following weeks.


How large should the sections be when dividing perennials?


A useful guideline is the “rule of thumb”: each section should be approximately the size of a clenched fist. More important than the exact size, however, is that every section has sufficient healthy roots and at least two to three strong growth buds or shoots. Sections that are too small have more difficulty establishing.


When can I fertilise divided perennials again?


Patience is crucial here. A starter feed of mature compost in the planting hole is ideal. However, avoid mineral fertilisers during the first four to six weeks. The plant should initially invest its energy in root development. Only once visible new growth appears should a mild fertiliser be applied if required.




Give freshly divided perennials support from the very beginning.

Discover perennial supports!

Tip:Also read our guide on quick autumn decorations for the garden. Here we show you beautiful DIY ideas and inspiration to showcase your garden in autumn.

by Stephanie Hofmann Stephanie Hofmann

In einem grünen Garten fühle ich mich der Natur ein Stückchen näher!

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